Istanbul Insider

Istanbul Insider

Verified for 2026

Everything You Need to Know

Over 60 expert answers curated by local insiders to make your trip flawless. No fluff, just facts.

✈️
Arrival & Logistics
🚇
Public Transportation
💰
Money & Budget
🍲
Food Culture
🛡️
Safety & Local Customs
📱
Tech & Travel Gear

Arrival & Logistics

Istanbul Airport (IST) vs Sabiha Gökçen (SAW) – Which to choose?

Istanbul Airport (IST) is located on the European Side and serves as the primary global hub. It is arguably the most technologically advanced airport in the world. Choose IST if you are staying in Sultanahmet, Beşiktaş, or Taksim. It features the incredible M11 high-speed Metro line and the most extensive duty-free shopping areas. However, its massive size means you should allow at least 20-30 minutes just for walking from the gate to passport control.

Sabiha Gökçen (SAW) is on the Asian Side. It is generally smaller, easier to navigate, and primarily serves low-cost carriers like Pegasus and regional Turkish Airlines flights. Choose SAW if your hotel is in Kadıköy or if you find a significantly cheaper flight. It is connected to the city via the M4 Metro line.

The 2026 Reality: Both airports are roughly 45-60km from the city center. While the metros have made them more accessible, road traffic in Istanbul remains unpredictable. Always allow at least 90 minutes for travel during peak commute hours (07:30-09:30 and 17:30-20:00).

Pro Tip: If you have a long layover at IST, check out the 'YOTEL' inside the terminal or the 'IGA Lounge', which offers sleeping pods and showers.

How do I get to the city center? (2026 Ultimate Guide)

Getting from the airport to your hotel is the first challenge. Here are your options in order of efficiency:

  • Metro (M11 from IST / M4 from SAW): The fastest and most cost-effective method. From IST, the M11 goes to Kağıthane and Gayrettepe. From there, you transfer to the M2 line to reach Taksim or Şişli. From SAW, the M4 goes directly to Kadıköy. Cost is roughly 50-70 TRY.
  • Havaist (IST) & Havabus (SAW) Shuttles: Luxury white coaches that run 24/7. They have dedicated luggage compartments and comfortable seating. Popular stops include Taksim Square, Beşiktaş, and Aksaray (for Sultanahmet). Cost: 180-250 TRY. You can pay with a credit card or via their mobile app.
  • Official Taxis: Use only the official stands outside. Yellow (Standard), Turquoise (Comfort), and Black (Luxury) taxis have different rates. A trip to Sultanahmet from IST typically costs 1300-1700 TRY depending on the bridge/tunnel tolls. Always insist on the meter (Taksimetre).
  • Private Transfers: Best for families or those with heavy luggage. Pre-booking a service like 'Welcome Pickups' or 'Fat Taxi' ensures a fixed price and a driver waiting with your name, avoiding the taxi queue entirely. Cost: ~40-60 EUR.

Visa Requirements & Passport Validity (Deep Dive)

Turkey's visa policy is generally welcoming, but strict on documentation. In 2026, citizens of the UK, USA, Canada, and most EU/Schengen nations enjoy visa-free entry for tourism stays of up to 90 days within any 180-day period.

The 150-Day Rule: This is where most travelers get caught. Your passport MUST be valid for at least 150 days (5 months) from the date you enter Turkey. If it expires in 4 months, you will likely be denied boarding at your home airport. No exceptions are made.

E-Visa Scams: If you do need a visa (e.g., Australian or certain Asian/African citizens), ONLY use the official government portal: evisa.gov.tr. Dozens of 'lookalike' websites exist that charge $100+ for a $50 visa. They are legal 'services' but essentially predatory.

Insurance: While not strictly mandatory for all, having travel insurance that covers private hospitals (like American Hospital or Acıbadem) is highly recommended, as government hospitals can have long waits and language barriers.

Tax-Free Shopping: How to get your money back

If you spend more than a certain amount (currently ~1000 TRY) in shops marked with 'Global Blue' or 'Tax Free' signs, you are eligible for a VAT refund of roughly 8-18%. Here is the process:

  1. At the Store: Ask for a 'Tax Free Form'. You will need to show your passport (or a photo of it).
  2. At the Airport (Departure): Before checking your bags, take your purchases and forms to the Customs Office (Gümrük) for a stamp. They may ask to see the items.
  3. Refunding: Take the stamped forms to the refund office (Global Blue or similar) to get your cash (TRY/EUR/USD) or a credit to your card.
  4. Note: The lines at the airport can be very long. Arrive an extra hour early if you plan on claiming a large refund.

Terminal Navigation: Survival Tips

Istanbul Airport is enormous. It's roughly the size of a small city. To make your arrival smoother:

  • Buggy Services: If you have mobility issues or are running late, use the IGA Buggy service (paid) to zip through the halls.
  • Free Wi-Fi: You get 1 hour of free Wi-Fi. You must scan your passport at a 'Wi-Fi Kiosk' provided by IGA to get a code. Local SIM shops can help you if you can't find a kiosk.
  • Money Exchange: The rates at the luggage carousel are the worst in the country. Exchange only enough for a bus ticket (e.g., $20) and wait until you get to the city center for better rates.

Public Transportation

Istanbulkart: The Digital vs. Physical Debate

The Istanbulkart is the backbone of the city's transport system. It works on everything: Metros, Trams, Ferries, Buses, and even the Marmaray. You cannot pay with cash on any vehicle.

Physical Card: Costs ~130-150 TRY (non-refundable). Buy it at yellow 'Biletmatik' machines. You load credit onto it. One card can be scanned for up to 5 people at most turnstiles (except Marmaray and Metrobüs, which require individual cards for refunds).

Digital App (Istanbulkart Mobile): You can create a digital card on your phone (requires a local or roaming Turkish number for SMS verification). You scan a QR code at the turnstiles. Great for avoiding machine lines, but sometimes the QR readers can be finicky.

Contactless Credit Cards: You can now use your Visa/Mastercard directly at turnstiles. It is convenient but costs significantly more (flat rate) and doesn't offer the free transfer discounts that the Istanbulkart does.

The Bosphorus Ferry: A Masterclass in City Travel

The public ferry (Vapur) system is the most romantic and efficient way to beat Istanbul's traffic. It's not just transport; it's a world-class tour for less than $1.

  • Top Route: Eminönü to Kadıköy. It takes 20 minutes and passes the Maiden’s Tower, Topkapi Palace, and Haydarpaşa Station.
  • The Bosporus Zig-Zag (Çengelköy-Istinye): A longer route that criss-crosses between Europe and Asia, perfect for seeing the grand waterfront mansions (Yalı).
  • Onboard Rituals: Every ferry has a small buffet. Buy a Çay (tea) and a Simit (sesame bagel). Sit on the back deck and enjoy the view. It’s the quintessential Istanbul experience.

Warning: Private 'Bosphorus Cruises' sold in Sultanahmet for $30-50 are often scams. The public ferry provides the same views for pennies.

Mastering the T1 Tram & The M2 Metro

The T1 (Blue Line) Tram: This is the 'Tourist Artery'. It connects Sultanahmet (the Old City) to Eminönü (Spice Bazaar), Karaköy (Galata Bridge), and Beşiktaş (Kabataş). It is frequent but can be extremely crowded. Mind your pockets in the tight spaces.

The M2 (Green Line) Metro: The modern spine of the city. Use it to go from the shopping districts of Nişantaşı (Osmanbey station) to the business hubs of Levent and the historic hills of Taksim and Şişhane (for Galata).

The Haliç Bridge: The M2 Metro stops on a bridge over the Golden Horn. The Haliç station offers the best panoramic view of the city skyline—get off here just for the photo!

The Marmaray & The Metrobüs (Crossing Continents)

The Marmaray: This is a deep-tunnel heavy rail line that goes 60 meters under the Bosphorus strait. It is the fastest way to get from the European side (Sirkeci) to the Asian side (Üsküdar) in 4 minutes flat. Note: You must scan your card out at the end to get a partial refund on the maximum fare.

The Metrobüs: A massive bus rapid transit system that has its own dedicated lane on the main highway. It is incredibly fast but also incredibly crowded. Use it only if you are in a hurry to reach areas like Mecidiyeköy or Beylikdüzü. Avoid it at all costs during rush hour unless you want a 'sardine' experience.

Nostalgic Trams: Don't miss the red T3 'Nostalgic Tram' in Kadıköy or the world-famous T2 tram that runs the length of İstiklal Avenue in Taksim. They are slower but full of history.

Public Transport Apps: What to use in 2026?

Google Maps is decent for walking, but for real-time transit data, locals use:

  • Moovit: Excellent for ferry times and finding the best combinations of tram/metro.
  • Citymapper: Becoming very popular in Istanbul for its clean UI and precise walking directions in the maze-like backstreets of Sultanahmet.
  • IETT Mobile: The official app for the bus system. It shows exactly how many minutes away the next bus is and if it's currently full.

Money & Budget

Cash vs. Card: Detailed Payment Strategy

In 2026, Istanbul is a highly digitized city, but it still maintains deep roots in cash-based commerce. Here is how to manage your wallet:

  • Credit/Debit Cards: Accepted in 99% of restaurants, hotels, major supermarkets, and boutique shops. Visa and Mastercard are universal; American Express is common only in luxury hotels and high-end malls.
  • Contactless (Apple/Google Pay): Extremely common. You can tap your phone for coffee, clothes, and even the ferry.
  • When you MUST have Cash (TRY): Small neighborhood 'Bakkals' (corner shops), street food vendors selling Simit or Midye, tipping (which cannot be added to card bills), and the public markets (Pazar) where bargaining is done in Lira.
  • USD/EUR: Helpful to have a small amount of cash as a backup, but paying in foreign currency at a restaurant will always result in a terrible exchange rate. Always pay in Turkish Lira (TRY) to save money.

ATM Withdrawals: How to avoid 10% 'Hidden' Fees

Turkish ATMs are notorious for their 'DCC' (Dynamic Currency Conversion) scams. When you withdraw money, the machine will ask: "Would you like to be charged in your home currency with a guaranteed exchange rate?"

ALWAYS SELECT 'DECLINE CONVERSION' OR 'WITHOUT CONVERSION'.

By declining, you let your home bank (or Wise/Revolut) handle the exchange rate, which is usually 5-8% better than the 'guaranteed' rate provided by the ATM. Also, try to use ATMs belonging to major banks like Ziraat Bankası, Garanti, or İş Bankası, as they often have lower usage fees than 'no-name' ATMs in tourist squares.

Pro Tip: Use 'Wise' (formerly TransferWise) for the best rates. Their card works perfectly at almost every terminal in the city.

Where to Exchange Money for the Best Rates

Avoid the airport and hotels at all costs—they take a massive cut. Instead, look for Döviz (Exchange) offices in these areas:

  • Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı): The shops inside, particularly around the 'Çuhacı Han' entrance, are the beating heart of Turkey's currency market. They offer the most competitive rates in the country.
  • Sultanahmet & Sirkeci: Plenty of competition keeps the spreads thin. Look for the board with the narrowest gap between 'Alış' (Buy) and 'Satış' (Sell).
  • Istiklal Avenue: Good for late-night exchanges, though rates slightly worsen after the market closes.

Check the Rate: Use an app like XE.com to know the 'mid-market' rate. If the office is offering a rate more than 2% away from that, keep walking.

Museum Pass Istanbul: Is it a good investment?

Individual entry tickets for major sites like the Hagia Sophia upper gallery or the Topkapi Palace have significantly increased in price (now charged in EUR for foreigners). The 'Museum Pass Istanbul' covers many of these over a 5-day period.

The Verdict: It is worth it ONLY if you plan on visiting at least 4 major sites. Its biggest benefit isn't the money saved, but the time saved. You get to skip the ticket purchase line (not the security line, which is mandatory for all).

Alternative: For residents or those staying long-term, the 'MüzeKart' is a different product. If you are just a tourist, ensure you are buying the official 15-day or 5-day Republic of Türkiye Museum Pass from an official kiosk, not a street vendor.

Tipping Culture (Bahşiş) - A Nuanced Guide

Tipping in Turkey is appreciated but never mandatory like in the US. However, there are specific norms:

  • Restaurants: 10% is standard for good service. 15% is considered generous. Most card machines still don't allow adding a tip, so carry small bills specifically for this. If service was poor, don't tip.
  • Taxis: Round up the fare. If it's 285 TRY, give 300. You don't need to tip a percentage unless they helped with heavy luggage.
  • Hotels: 50 TRY for the porter per bag is standard. 100-200 TRY for the cleaning staff at the end of a week's stay is a kind gesture.
  • Hamams: This is the only place tips are 'expected'. It is common to leave 10-15% for the person who performed your scrub/massage.

Food Culture

The Turkish Breakfast (Kahvaltı) Ritual

In Turkey, breakfast is not a meal—it is a social event that can last for hours. A traditional Serpme Kahvaltı involves dozens of small plates shared among the table.

The Essentials: You must try Bal-Kaymak (creamy buffalo clotted cream with honey), a variety of olives from the Aegean, Sucuklu Yumurta (eggs with spicy garlic sausage), and Menemen (savory scrambled eggs with tomatoes and peppers). Bread is always fresh and bottomless.

Best Spots: Van Kahvaltı Evi in Cihangir is famous for its regional specialties. For a view, head to the cafes in Rumeli Hisarı along the Bosphorus.

Note: Order 'one breakfast' for every two people if you aren't starving—the portions are massive and intended for sharing.

Street Food Safety & Must-Tries

Istanbul's street food is legendary and, due to high turnover, generally very safe. Here are the 'Big Four' you can't miss:

  • Simit: The circular sesame bread sold from red carts. Best eaten fresh in the morning. Buy it from a cart that looks busy—it means the bread is fresh.
  • Balık Ekmek: Grilled mackerel in a half-loaf of bread, served with onions and lettuce. The boats in Eminönü are iconic, but for a better quality piece of fish, try the stalls in Karaköy or Yeniköy.
  • Midye Dolma: Mussels stuffed with spiced rice and a squeeze of lemon. You'll see guys on street corners with trays. It's a late-night favorite. If you're nervous, try them at a seated shop like 'Midyeci Ahmet'.
  • Lahmacun: Often called 'Turkish Pizza', it's a thin dough topped with minced meat, herbs, and spices. Roll it up with parsley and lemon. It's the perfect light lunch.

Drinking Tap Water vs. Bottled Water

While the municipal water in Istanbul is chemically treated and safe for bathing, the aging pipe infrastructure means that no local actually drinks it. It can have a strong metallic or chlorine taste.

Bottled water is ubiquitous and very cheap ($0.20 for a small bottle). You can buy it at any 'Büfe' or grocery store. For your hotel, buy a 5-liter jug to save money and plastic.

Sustainability Tip: Many modern cafes in Kadıköy and Galata now offer filtered tap water for free if you bring your own reusable bottle. Look for 'Refill' stickers on windows.

Dining Etiquette: Meyhane vs. Lokanta

Understanding the type of establishment is key to having a good meal:

  • Esnaf Lokantası (Tradesmen's Restaurant): Pure, homemade Turkish food. These are 'no-alcohol' spots where you point at the trays of food behind the glass. It's the cheapest way to eat high-quality stews, pilafs, and vegetables. Lunch only!
  • Meyhane (Tavern): These are for long nights of drinking Rakı and eating Mezes (cold starters). The pace is slow, often accompanied by live 'Fasıl' music. It is a celebratory, loud, and joyous atmosphere. Expect a higher bill here.
  • Kebapçı: Focused entirely on grilled meats. No meze marathons here—you order your soup, your kebab, and you leave.

Pro Tip: 'Ekmek' (bread) is sacred in Turkey. Never throw it on the ground. If you see bread hanging in a bag on a fence, it's Askıda Ekmek—bread paid for by a stranger for someone in need to take for free.

Tea (Çay) and Coffee (Kahve) Traditions

Tea: It is the real fuel of the city. Served in tulip-shaped glasses, it should be mahogany red (Tavşan Kanı - rabbit's blood). If a shopkeeper offers you tea, accept it! It is a gesture of hospitality and does not obligate you to buy anything. Stir in the sugar, but never add milk—that's a capital offense in Turkey.

Turkish Coffee: Thick, potent, and comes in three sugar levels: Sade (none), Orta (medium), and Şekerli (sweet). You must specify the sugar before it's brewed. Drink it slowly, and stop when you reach the silt (grounds) at the bottom. It is traditionally served with a glass of water and a piece of Turkish Delight.

Fortune Telling: After finishing your coffee, turn the cup upside down onto the saucer. Once it cools, a friend might 'read' your fortune from the patterns in the grounds. It's a beloved local pastime.

Safety & Local Customs

Mosque Etiquette: A Guide for Non-Muslims

Visitors are welcome in almost all mosques except during the five daily prayer times. Here is how to show respect:

  • Dress Code: Shoulders and knees must be covered for everyone. No shorts or tank tops. Women must cover their hair with a scarf. If you don't have one, major mosques like the Blue Mosque or Hagia Sophia provide them for free/small rental at the entrance.
  • Shoes: Remove your shoes before stepping on the carpet. Most mosques provide plastic bags so you can carry your shoes with you.
  • Behavior: Speak in whispers. Don't use flash photography. Never walk in front of someone while they are praying—their connection with God is considered interrupted if you pass between them and the wall facing Mecca.

Ramadan in 2026: If your visit coincides with the holy month, remember that many locals will be fasting from dawn to sunset. While it's perfectly fine for you to eat, try to be discreet in public areas of less-touristy neighborhoods as a sign of respect.

The Hamam (Turkish Bath) Experience

A visit to a historic Hamam (like Cağaloğlu or Kılıç Ali Paşa) is a must. Here is what to expect during the 1.5-hour process:

  1. Transition: You change into a 'Pestamal' (thin towel) in your private changing room.
  2. The Hot Room: You lie on the 'Göbek Taşı' (hot marble stone) for 20 minutes to sweat and soften your skin.
  3. The Kese (Scrub): A 'Tellak' (attendant) will use a coarse silk mitt to vigorously scrub away dead skin. You will be shocked (and slightly embarrassed) by how much comes off.
  4. The Foam Massage: You are covered in a cloud of soap bubbles and massaged.

Etiquette: Hamams are usually separated by gender. Most historic baths have separate hours or entirely separate wings for men and women. Do not bring cameras inside. It is customary to tip your attendant at the end (~15%).

How to handle Scams and 'Hustlers' in 2026

Istanbul is generally very safe, but 'Tourist Hustling' is an art form here. Stay aware of these common scenarios:

  • The Friendly Local: A guy approaches you in Taksim or Sultanahmet, speaks great English, and asks where you are from. He eventually invites you to a bar for a 'drink with locals'. NEVER GO. You will be given a bill for $1000, and several large men will 'escort' you to an ATM.
  • The Dropped Brush: A shoe-shiner walks past and 'accidentally' drops his brush. If you pick it up and give it back, he will offer a 'free' thank-you shine. It is NOT free. He will demand money and cause a scene if you don't pay. Just ignore it and keep walking.
  • The Carpet Shop Tea: If you enter a carpet shop and accept tea, you aren't forced to buy. But be prepared for a 45-minute high-pressure sales pitch. Only go in if you are actually interested in the art.

The Golden Rule: If a stranger's approach feels too helpful or too friendly, they likely have an ulterior motive. A polite 'No thank you' (Hayır, teşekkürler) and continued walking is the most effective defense.

Solo Female Travel: Safety & Blending In

Istanbul is safer than many Western capitals, but solo women may encounter more 'attention' than they are used to. To minimize this:

  • Blaine In: Dress 'smart-casual'. In neighborhoods like Nişantaşı or Kadıköy, anything goes. In Sultanahmet or Fatih, dressing more modestly (covering shoulders/knees) helps reduce unwanted staring.
  • Public Transport: Perfectly safe day and night. On the Metro or Ferry, there is zero issue. In taxis, sit in the back seat and have your GPS map open so the driver knows you are tracking the route.
  • Harassment: If someone is being persistent, don't be afraid to be firm. A loud "Ayıp!" (Shame on you!) or "Git!" (Go away!) will quickly draw the attention of locals, who will almost always step in to help you.

Istanbul’s Street Animals: Ethics & Interaction

You will see hundreds of cats and dogs on the streets. They are not 'stray' in the traditional sense; they are communal pets. Most have ear tags (for dogs) indicating they are vaccinated, neutered, and tracked by the city.

Interaction: They are generally very friendly and used to humans. It’s fine to pet the cats. For dogs, use common sense—if they are sleeping, let them be. Locals take great pride in feeding them; you'll see bowls of water and kibble on every corner.

Note: While clean, they are still street animals. Always wash your hands after petting before you eat. Do not attempt to take one home without consulting a local 'Rescue' NGO first, as the export process is complex.

Tech & Travel Gear

Mobile Connectivity: eSIM vs. Physical SIM (The 120-Day Rule)

Staying connected in Turkey has some peculiar laws you need to know:

  • eSIM (Airalo, Holafly, Nomad): Best for short trips (under 15 days). It’s data-only, easy to install, and saves you from the markup at airport kiosks.
  • Physical SIM (Turkcell, Vodafone, Türk Telekom): Necessary if you need a local number for apps like BiTaksi or Getir. Turkcell has the best coverage in the Metro and remote villages. Buy it in the city (Beşiktaş or Şişli) to pay $20 instead of the $50 'Tourist Special' at the airport.
  • The IMEI Lock: If you stay in Turkey for more than 120 days, the government will block your phone's unique ID (IMEI) from using any Turkish SIM card unless you pay a massive tax (currently ~$1000 USD). This doesn't affect short-term tourists, but it's something to know if you're a digital nomad.

Essential Apps for Istanbul in 2026

Your trip will be 10x easier with these installed:

  • BiTaksi / Uber: To call yellow taxis. It logs the route and price, providing safety. Note: Uber in Turkey just calls a regular yellow/turquoise taxi.
  • Getir / Yemeksepeti: For 10-minute grocery or hot food delivery to your hotel. Using Getir in its birthplace is a must-try experience.
  • Google Translate: Download the Turkish language pack for offline use. The 'Camera' mode is essential for translating menus in neighborhood lokantas.
  • Martı / BinBin: For electric scooter rentals, which are great for the long, flat seaside path between Beşiktaş and Bebek.

Electricity, Plugs, and Power Surges

Turkey uses the standard Type F European 2-pin plug (230V, 50Hz). If you are from the UK or North America, you will need an adapter. Most modern hotels have USB-A and USB-C ports built into the desks, but don't count on it in budget guesthouses.

Power Quality: In older neighborhoods like Sultanahmet or Balat, minor power surges or 'brownouts' can happen during heavy storms. If you have very expensive electronics (like a high-end MacBook), using a basic surge protector adapter is a wise precaution.

Cybersecurity & VPN Usage

Is the internet censored in Turkey? Generally, no—Instagram, WhatsApp, and Google work perfectly. However, the government occasionally throttles specific social media sites during major political events or security incidents for 'national safety'.

VPN Recommendation: Using a VPN (like NordVPN or ExpressVPN) is standard practice for travelers. It allows you to access sites that might be temporarily blocked and provides an extra layer of security when using public Wi-Fi at airports or Starbucks.

Finding Free Wi-Fi in the City

Istanbul is well-covered by Wi-Fi, but there’s a catch:

  • İBB Wi-Fi: The city-wide free Wi-Fi provided by the municipality. It is available in almost all major squares and on the ferries. You need a phone number to receive a verification SMS to sign in.
  • Cafes: It is standard for every cafe to have Wi-Fi. The password is often printed on the bottom of the receipt or on a sign near the bar.
  • Starbucks & Nero: These are reliable 'backup' offices for travelers. They require a quick login page but are generally fast enough for video calls.